Entering the Twilight Zone with Nights in Rodanthe

“If my enemies saw me walk on water, they would say I couldn’t swim”

- Margaret Thatcher.

Driving East along N.C. 64 towards Cape Hatteras, the western most approach to the Outer Banks does indeed feel like walking on water - or at least driving a car in places only a boat should go. Walk, drive, kayak - it doesn’t really matter your mode of transport, making your way to the best spots on the Outer Banks is going to take some time.

In the duration of such time, your confusion over the late Prime Minister’s quote will become instantly clear (The Outer Banks are in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean). Idiots home or abroad aside - I have an unpopular opinion to share: the best time to visit the Outer Banks is in the early spring. I recently ventured to all five outer banks lighthouses in a confused quest to come full circle on appreciating the innumerable amount of lighthouses I was dragged to as a child under the guise of vacation.

What I learned along the way should have you packing your bags to drive east, just literally as far east as you can get. As you finally complete the suspension shocking, brain jostling road conditions that represent the last few miles of bridges on N.C. 64, make a right and head south towards Rodanthe. My preferred home base for the start of any OBX journey are the small communities of Waves and Rodanthe. Two of my three favorite campsites on the East Coast are within a 20-minute drive, and the best Airbnb I’ve stayed at in years is a link you are going to want. Until you make that decision, for now I’ll toss you a freebie - the Waves Market is legendary. You will not find a better convenience store, market, and deli counter on the island.

Traveling the roadways of the Outer Banks can be a unique experience depending on what combination of high winds, flooding, and near-constant road maintenance is taking place on any given day. (Read: bulldozers pushing sand back in places nature doesn’t want it).

Houses for rent are abundant in the OBX, but the premier beach and ocean view often comes paired with sticker shock. What’s more troubling is that I didn’t see too many sticker-shock houses I actually wanted to rent (because we all know you can’t buy taste). If you’re up for non-traditional accommodation, the ability to find the perfect view without breaking the bank is more than possible here. In the last three years, I’ve camped and rented houses twice in and around Rodanthe and I’m already planning my return for next spring. One particular campsite (and I do mean a single location) is so good, reservations are needed many months in advance.

Waterfront views are not easy to come by in the OBX for camping or RVing unless you’re brave enough to drive directly on the beach (hell no I’m not - and my truck has more four-wheel-drive technology than you can shake a stick at.) Don’t let that fool you into thinking a five figure house rental is the only or last resort. I didn’t have to break the bank to sleep at my favorite place. As you may be familiar with by now, the inspiration around here is free, but the GPS coordinates and links to my favorite actual places to lay your head are coin operated. Head over to the members-only Travel Library to find three of my top campgrounds in the USA and perhaps the best Airbnb in Rodanthe, if not all of the OBX.

On Timing //

I did tell you I had an unpopular, early spring preference for the OBX, and I’m happy to explain myself. First, I can understand why you’re questioning my off-season (or at worst, quite early-season) arrival, but hear me out. What you lose out on by visiting early in the year - closed businesses, reduced hours at most businesses still open, and an overall feel of being alone on a deserted island - are all things I consider to be strengths.

That’s because I know the Outer Banks are not the same as, say the Florida Panhandle. I’m not expecting the same prices, accommodation, or infrastructure. These islands simply don’t support them. They really are not so much islands as they are constantly moving sandbars that naturally protect North Carolina’s eastern shore from the millennia of hurricanes they have been exposed to.

The pros of arriving this time of year may not excite you as much as they do me, but think about no traffic! That lack of congestion on the islands limited roadways means you can move around at your heart’s content. Anyone who’s ever been stuck in a traffic jam attempting to catch the Ocracoke ferry knows what I’m talking about. If you’re looking to maximize sightseeing and cover a lot of ground without wasting time in traffic, this is the time of year to come.

If you’re worried about being alone on a deserted island… well that’s half the allure of coming this time of year. It doesn’t take a master’s degree in economics to realize the businesses that are open year-round are probably the ones you want to go to in the first place. They’re either so successful it doesn’t make financial sense to shutter them in the off-season, or more likely, run by locals and year round residents. Is there any place else you would want to spend your tourism dollars? Didn’t think so.

On History //

The Outer Banks are in constant motion, shifting and reshaping under the influence of wind, waves, and weather. The islands' mobility can be observed through both subtle and dramatic changes. Erosion and accretion, the wearing away and building up of land, respectively, give these islands their ever-changing character. Some areas have experienced average annual shoreline change rates of over 12 feet, an astonishing figure that reveals the fluid nature of these sandy barriers.

Major storms have left indelible marks on the Outer Banks, transforming the landscape overnight. Hurricane Isabel in 2003, for instance, created a new inlet on Hatteras Island, a vivid reminder of the islands' vulnerability and adaptability. Such events capture headlines but also underscore the intricate balance that governs these fragile ecosystems.

On Lighthouses//

Human interventions add a layer of complexity to the islands' movement. Efforts to stabilize the shoreline, such as seawalls and jetties, often yield mixed results. The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse's inland move, prompted by the shifting shoreline, illustrates the profound challenges of preserving historical landmarks amid the islands' natural flux.

With coastal waters dubbed the "Graveyard of the Atlantic" due to the high number of shipwrecks, the Outer Banks' lighthouses were constructed in response to an urgent need for navigational aids. Their distinctive designs and advanced technologies, such as the Fresnel lens, revolutionized maritime navigation. Each has its own history, reflecting the evolution of coastal life, commerce, and the enduring quest for safety at sea over the last 200+ years.